The Different Brand of Men's Jeans in Pakistan
HOW TO CHOOSE MEN JEANS
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Among all the basics of the male wardrobe, Men Jeans undoubtedly the one who reigns supreme! For many decades, this indigo-dyed cotton piece has been an integral part of our wardrobe. Raw or slightly washed, the jeans are a piece of character that will age and evolve over the ports to adopt a beautiful patina and a nice wash. To obtain good results, there is no secret, it is essential to choose it well. Very often, we ask questions about the fabric (Italian denim, selvage? How thick? 11oz or 14oz?), then come other questions about the cut, the size, and the different finishes that we need to choose or not. Do not panic, here we will try to shed some light on all these questions!
Summary
1. The little story of jeans
It all starts with two men, Levi-Strauss and Jacob Davis. In 1870 Davis owned a renowned Nevada spinning business and Levi-Strauss a fabric business. One day, a woman asked Davis to design solid pants so that her husband could wear them for more than one work season. She paid an advance of $ 3 and he accepted. He then worked with a roll of cotton canvas purchased from Levi-Strauss and created ordinary pants until he had the idea of adding copper rivets to maintain the fabric at certain sensitive points of the pants. The idea allowed us to design more robust and more durable pants. Even if he only sold a few pants the first summer, the reputation of his products soon grew and sales increased. Davis subsequently sought a partner and immediately thought of the one who had sold him the raw material, Levi-Strauss (1872). On may 20, 1873 was published the patent associated with this new discovery, entitled "Improvement in fastening pocket-openings". Therefore, we consider that this date is that of the birth of jeans. After 1880 (due to the expiration of the patent), other brands took over the concept and developed their own solid pants. Jeans will then become the flagship piece of factories and ranches before spreading in the second half of the 20th century to the vast majority of dressings. This date is considered to be that of the birth of the jeans. After 1880 (due to the expiration of the patent), other brands took over the concept and developed their own solid pants. Jeans will then become the flagship piece of factories and ranches before spreading in the second half of the 20th century to the vast majority of dressings. This date is considered to be that of the birth of the jeans. After 1880 (due to the expiration of the patent), other brands took over the concept and developed their own solid pants. Jeans will then become the flagship piece of factories and ranches before spreading in the second half of the 20th century to the vast majority of dressings.
2. The different denim fabrics
Today, the market is full of Men Jeans fabrics, so much so that you can find them at all prices. To put it simply, we will distinguish two fabrics of jeans: classic denim and selvage denim. Note that even if the most famous jeans are made from selvage fabrics, this canvas is not always a guarantee of quality. Of course, I'm not talking about Japanese or American selvage fabrics (like formerly cone mills), but rather those that are found at low prices in major brands. Indeed, just like us, you must have noticed in recent years that many fast-fashion brands have taken on the term "Selvedge" in turn.
Little personal anecdote, a few months ago, I went to Galeries Lafayette in Rennes. After stopping at several corners, I approached jeans and I started to look at it from all angles (because yes, I often have this tick). Very quickly, I realized that it was nothing more or less than a false jean selvage. On the inside of the jeans was sewn a strip of fabric, precisely at the location of the selvage border. I noticed it immediately because of the many wires that were sticking out. Besides, among the fast-fashion brands that offer selvage jeans, we will notice that the canvas lacks character and that it is often too thin. Afterward, in some cases (quite rare), we can come across parts that will age rather well. All this to tell you that it is better to take a step back and analyze the piece that is in your hands before launching and that non-selvage jeans (Italian denim for example) are not necessarily lower quality jeans than entry-level selvage jeans.
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A. Classic denim
We start with the canvas that we find the most on the jeans market, the most popular, classic denim. Originally, it was a resistant french canvas that was made from wool and silk from the famous city of nîmes. We are at the end of the XIXth century. The canvas is then used in the manufacture of work pants. Subsequently, this twill is exported to California and accompanies the vast majority of gold seekers. This is how the legend of denim was born (just that).
On classic denim, this very tight weave is made from a chain dyed blue and an unbleached or white weft. The weft threads are interwoven at a 90-degree angle with the warp threads. The weave (or weaving design) is designed from three weft threads sliding under a warp thread and then a weft thread passing over this same warp. The offset of this weave on four threads gives diagonal lines, a characteristic of twill. On the vast majority of jeans, there is what is called the right-hand twill or twill of rib s. In this case, the diagonal of the fabric leaves from the lower left to the upper right.
You should know that some Men Jeans brands like lee have opted for a left-handed weaving, which is called left-hand twill. It is simply the reverse of the right-hand twill. This weaving technique brings a certain softness to the fabric since the direction of twist given to the thread makes it possible to bring out the soft feel.
Finally, there is denim that combines these two weaving techniques. It is a canvas that has no distinct orientation, that is, no right hand till or left-hand twill. It's called broken twill . A weaving used by the American brand wrangler in 1964 (the 13mwz model). The goal is to avoid twisting between right and left-handed fabrics, but also to resist daily abrasion. The drawing is easily recognizable since it is a zigzag that can be observed when turning the part.
As mentioned earlier, the oblique lines of the denim come from the way the cotton twill is woven. You should know that the weaving of non-selvage denim is faster and therefore, therefore, cheaper than selvage denim. To put it simply, the weft thread passes under three warp threads, then over another (then so on). A new weft yarn is then used for each pass. This is not the case for selvage jeans.
B. Selvage denim
Indeed, even if we will keep the same weave as non-selvage denim, we will use a single weft thread here. The advantage of this technique is that you get much more resistant denim. On the other hand, the manufacturing process, production time and the number of meters of fabric require much higher production costs. Forgotten during the glorious 30s, notably due to industrialization, selvage denim came back to the fore from the 80s. The Japanese were a step ahead since they had already started importing old crafts to weave and start producing their fabric after the war. The selvage does not designate raw jeans, but a type of weaving: a twill reinforced with attributes of superior strength. For ten years already,
If we were to note the major advantage of selvage denim it would certainly be the fact that the weaving is much tighter and denser than conventional denim. The touch is more rigid in the first ports of course, but the jeans will have a much more beautiful appearance over time. We must not forget to specify that selvage jeans made on old looms, will naturally have imperfections, which will give each piece a very particular character. For producers, the rolls of fabric with reinforced edges make it possible to limit the losses and falls of tissue lost during the manufacturing process.
Even if of course there are exceptions, selvage jeans are of much better quality, more beautiful, but above all more solid. Because of this, they will also be more expensive than lambda jeans. The ageing of the piece is particularly interesting, to the point that some purists have a particular interest in the development of the washout of their jeans. Over the ports, the indigo will gradually fade to reveal traces of wear, the material will soften, offering us an incredible comfort. For some followers of selvage jeans, this piece is considered "Organic" since it will live and evolve with the person who wears it. In short, the traces and the numerous scars on selvage jeans will create a unique story!
3. The different weights of jeans
For your information, an oz is an anglo-Saxon unit of measure, 1 oz weighs about 28 grams. Here are the main weights that can be found on the denim market:
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- 11 oz: if jeans weigh less than or equal to 11oz, it is considered to be part of light jeans, that is to say, that it will be ideal for the summer period (and during hot weather).
- From 11 oz to 13 oz: if your jeans are between 11 oz and 13 oz, then it is in the standards because it is the most common thickness on the denim market. It can be worn easily all year round.
- From 14 oz to 16 oz: we are starting to gain weight. The canvas is thick and therefore rather warm. We recommend this type of weight during the winter season.
- Over 16oz: we no longer laugh, the canvas is particularly heavy. Even if comfort is not necessarily there (especially during the first ports), you can get very nice washes.
4. How to recognize quality jeans?
When looking for jeans, we must pay all our attention to the quality of the canvas, its place of production and its reputation in general, because investing in good jeans is choosing to buy a piece that is worth its price and which should accompany us for several years. Very often, our jeans face abrasion and daily twists, so no doubt to have if you want it to last more than 6 months, you have to make the right choice from the start. In the end, when you think about it, it is better to have two pairs of jeans, or even three good quality jeans in your closet, rather than a dozen low-end Men Jeans that distort, lose their color and tear in certain places. So, here we will define the different elements that define quality jeans. Of course, that goes through the quality of the denim,
A. The quality of denim: the best spinning
Regarding selvage jeans, we do not necessarily have the means to detail the real quality of each denim, because it would be necessary to visit all the weaving workshops in the world. On the other hand, we can mention the most prestigious spinning mills, and in other words the most reliable. We start with the historic cone mills denim factory (in Greensboro, in the united states), which was the historical supplier of Levi's, but which unfortunately ceased its activity in 2017. White oak still supplied fabrics for Levi's vintage clothing or still other more discreet brands like Norse projects. I prefer to mention it because there is still the possibility of finding this type of denim in the second-hand offer and it is not (yet) too rare at the moment. It is also very good value for money. There are however American brands such as a blue owl, gustin, Williamsburg or brave star which still produce selvage jeans in the united states. This country remains a reliable source for selvage jeans, one can hardly be disappointed. Besides, without necessarily talking about selvage, there is a certain craze for vintage Levi's jeans made in the USA.
How to talk about selvage jeans without mentioning japan? The land of the rising sun is the cradle of this raw indigo piece made in beautiful and irregular selvage fabrics. It is difficult to navigate with the different Japanese spinning mills, so we will try to clarify the subject. We start with Sakuraba, a house founded over a hundred years ago and which represents one of the oldest denim factories in japan. The know-how and the heritage passed on from generation to generation is still essential. Thus, one can find processes like the natural indigo shade. We know Sakuraba in particular thanks to the jeans brand big john. Today, spinning is still present and works with brands such as Baldwin, epaulet or french brands like Drapeau noir. We can also talk about Kihara, a Japanese house founded in 1951 which is notably known for the rope dyeing. The factory acquired vintage weaving machines in 1990 to produce their denim selvage ring spun. They worked with Levi's premium made in japan or even apc. Let's also talk about japan blue group, founded more recently in 2005. The brands distributed by the group are japan blue for the entry-level and Momotaro for the high-end. Finally, we could also cite Kuroki (3sixteen, Taylor stitch, etc.) or the Nihon menu.
Today, we find beautiful European non-selvage fabrics, like Italian denim. The denim is of good quality and the value for money interesting. And on top of that, jeans most often have the correct finishes. We can cite brands like Norse projects or harmony who decided to have their jeans produced in Italy. Besides, Italian denim manufacturers have a reputation for producing quality jeans at low prices. If you opt for non-selvage industrial jeans, you will have to pay attention to weaving. It must be regular and not random. Just take a look at the canvas to see it.
B. Finishes
After ensuring the quality of the canvas, we must look at the side of the finishes. Logically, the more the jeans will have advanced finishes the higher the price. Moreover, the finishes will make it possible to differentiate two jeans which seem to be similar, but which in the end are not necessarily so. Overall, I grant you, the finishes of a pair of jeans remain relatively close from one pair of jeans to another, it's all a question of details. Some brands are also differentiated by these finishes, like a signature of the brand. Seams, stitches, pocket lining, chain stitch or rivets, we will sift through each finish:
The seams
The seams on jeans are very important, as they will determine the longevity of the piece. Generally, good stitching results in tight, thick stitches, and above all aligned and regular. To check their quality, there is no secret, just pull on the different pieces of denim and see if the tightening is there or not. If, on the contrary, the threads are too thin and there is a lack of regularity in the design, it is to be expected that the jeans will not hold over the long term. To appreciate and check more the solidity of the seams, do not hesitate to turn the jeans over and analyze the legs on the inside, the crotch, the fly or even the pockets. Moreover, it is often between the legs that denim faces the most torsion and abrasion.
The pocket lining
Anyone who has never had pockets with holes at least once is a liar (I'm kidding, of course). The fact remains that if you want to keep your jeans for several years, you must pay attention to the quality of the lining of the pockets, because yes, facing many ports and especially against abrasion (keys, door money, etc.), they can end up being torn or even torn. We will favor a quality assembly within particular rivets and/or solid seams and above all a thick and resistant material!
Breakpoint or reinforcement
Very often, over the ports, the back pockets tend to deform and sometimes even to tear apart. Friction and tension are all the more present when you put your cell phone or XXL wallet, for example. In this case, it is better to favor Men Jeans with a stopping point or as here a reinforcement with an additional seam. It is also not uncommon to find them at the fly (this one is also very requested)
The rivets
The rivets copper, a Levi Strauss invention to improve the durability of his work pants, especially at the pockets and fly. Since then, they are found on most denim. Pink in colour and sometimes personalized, the rivets are often the brand's signature. However, it is not uncommon to find metal!
The chain stitch
For some people, the chain stitch is an almost indispensable finish, because it was present on jeans from the middle of the 19th century. It must be admitted that this detail is more aesthetic than useful. The chain stitch will give more authenticity than a simple tie stitch. For the hem, it will give a certain rigidity, which will give a better fall. Of course, provided that it is well done.
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5. The different cuts of jeans
Now let's move on to the cuts of the different jeans that can be found on the denim market. Even if they can vary according to the different brands of denim, there are mainly six:
A. Loose fit jeans
The loose fit is gradually resurfacing in the world of denim, without falling back into the famous baggies of the late 90s early 2000. As the name suggests, it is the widest cut that we can find in denim. This type of casual and comfortable Men Jeans will perfectly match streetwear and workwear looks. If it is not a 7 / 8th or the right length, it is advisable to make a setback to avoid giving a "Baggy" effect. The ankle opening is interesting to be able to slip in a larger pair of sneakers, like new balance 990 for example!
B. Straight cut jeans (regular)
Surely one of my favorite cuts! Otherwise called regular cut in some brands, it has the distinction of adopting a straight shape from the waist to the bottom of the pants. It is the most classic and timeless cut. As you can imagine, the most famous straight jeans are the legendary model 501 from Levi's. Even if some of you may think that regular jeans are only intended for people who have calves and/or muscular thighs, it is indeed a misconception. It can easily be worn by thinner people. A cut that matches all body shapes!
C. Semi-slim cut jeans
It is nothing less than a derivative of slim jeans because this cut is between a straight cut and a slim cut. The semi-slim is ideal if you are looking for a slightly narrow jean cut at the thighs, calves, and bottom of the pants. This is the cut that most highlights our silhouette because it follows our shapes without giving an effect that is too "Tight". We will rarely find the name “semi-slim”, but rather slim depending on the brand.
D. Jean cut tapered
The tapered cut is similar to the slim cut but has more ease at the thighs. The tapered jeans will, therefore, be refined below the knee to be tightened at the calves and ankles. The opening at the ankle is rather narrow. Like the semi-slim, it is a cut that will easily adapt to the vast majority of body shapes. To know that brands like Edwin distinguish the tapered regular and tapered slim cut.
E. Slim fit jeans
The slim cut is a cut that is often found. She will marry and emphasize the shapes of our body in a natural way, which means that she tends to mold our thighs, our calves, as well as our buttocks. Slim jeans are not necessarily to be avoided if there are some forms to hide since they will refine the body. Otherwise, it will, of course, be suitable for fine or even very fine silhouettes.
F. Skinny fit jeans
There was a period when the skinny cut was very popular, but we will not hide it, this cut looks rather adolescent and is not necessarily always flattering. "Skinny" in English simply means "Lean", in d 'other words, a form-fitting cut. It will, therefore, be necessary to opt for a skinny composed of a percentage of elastane. We can not cheat with a skinny, so if we have forms, it is better to simply go our way and turn to another cut ( semi-slim, even regular ).
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6. How to choose the size of your jeans?
- The jeans must tighten at the waist because it will relax as you wear them
- The buttocks must be well maintained
- No need to wear a belt (if the jeans fall, it is better to take a size below)
- No excess material at the crotch
- Must not be too tight
- Check the length of the jeans and choose the most suitable: l30, l32, l34
7. Where to find jeans?
To help you in your quest for Men Jeans, we invite you to discover an exhaustive list of brands classified according to their price range (and in ascending order in each range)!
A. Entry-level jeans brands
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Arket
We start with the new brand of basics of the h&m group, market. We find entry-level jeans made in Bangladesh in a 14 oz canvas and with correct finishes for an average price of (also correct). Nothing extraordinary certainly, but these are good basics within everyone's reach. Note that the brand also offers a selvage line for an additional € 40. The cuts are interesting and in tune with the times!
Carhartt WIP
As with chinos, Carhartt offers a multitude of jeans for men. There are various cuts and sizes that correspond to all possible body shapes. True skater jeans, the fabrics are generally robust and durable! The prices start in which is quite reasonable for people who wish to acquire correct jeans below the 100 € mark. Note that the brand has already produced selvage jeans. Besides, if you find selvage denim from the Carhartt Heritage line second-hand, don't hesitate, because it's excellent value for money!
Standard house
Maison standards, this is a french brand that we have been following for some time on comme un camion. A few years ago romano had tested their selvage jeans, then recently it was Tommy's turn with their version of recycled jeans. Jeans are offered between Interesting for those who wish to acquire quality jeans without making a loan to the bank;)
The unbranded brand
Behind the unbranded brand, understand “the brand without a name”, a brand developed by the founders of naked & famous. The unbranded brand uses very good quality basic selvage fabrics to offer a high-end final product at a more than affordable price. In order to limit production costs and therefore the final price, the brand has chosen to centralize the production of its fabrics and the confection of its jeans in Macao mark, we have good quality selvage Men Jeans in our hands for a very affordable price. Note, however, that the fabric is very rigid during the first wearing, but quickly becomes comfortable. If the brand interests you, we recently tested the unbranded brand skinny.
Maneuvering field
The workwear brand has offered since its inception a version of selvage jeans that it has improved over the years. Romano had tested their Japanese canvas selvage Kuroki in 2017. He was pleasantly surprised by the finishes of the piece. Today, champ de maneuvres offer jeans selvage for a hundred euros. An interesting alternative to complete your collection or invest in a first quality selvage.
Asked
The Swedish brand with beautiful basics also offers raw jeans. Asket creates denim made to age brilliantly. This is a 13 oz Japanese canvas from Aichi, Japan. The jeans are then assembled in Italy. Asket plays the transparency card and details all of its choices on its site. Offered at just, these jeans have a very good price/quality ratio. I will surely let myself be tempted and order very soon to see it more closely!
Harmony
Harmony recently changed its business model. The result is a much more affordable collection than previously. The brand has its place here because it offers very good Italian denim. The cuts and the degrees of washing are particularly well controlled. The French brand even offers 7 / 8th!
Black flag
Drapeau noir has always offered textured pieces with Japanese inspiration. Even if the label is best known for its flannel pants, it offers unique jeans. This one is interesting since it is a raw Japanese denim fabric from turbo assembled in Portugal. The irregularity and character of this 14.5 oz canvas are there, all for a price of. The cut is rather semi-slim, so it will easily adapt to most body types.
Levi's Made & crafted
Levi's Made & crafted is one of two premium lines from Levi's. Keeping the character and authenticity of the historic brand, it offers revisited and contemporary pieces. The tack slim model was also one of my first selvage jeans. Even if the assembly is carried out in Turkey, the quality of the part is quite correct. In my case, the Men Jeans opted for a nice wash and a very nice patina. Count on average € 140 for jeans from made & crafted.
Balibaris
Balibar is a French brand that we have been following for some time and which we have rarely been disappointed with. It currently offers six different colors, including raw selvage jeans. The jeans are all offered at a unit price of. The assembly is correct and the parts made in turkey. The washes are relatively light which gives a natural look to the rooms.
Edwin
The Japanese brand Edwin has made denim its specialty and is today a real reference. The entry-level is affordable since we find jeans. The jeans are of good quality and evolve perfectly according to the ports. The cuts are particularly successful like the tapered cut. In terms of washing, they will be relatively discreet on this type of canvas. Like Levi's, Edwin also offers a premium line. We find denim made in japan whose prices range from on average. Personally, I have not had the opportunity to test, but on paper, it seems more than consistent!
B. Mid-range jeans brands
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Nudie
In addition to tops and many accessories, the Swedish brand nudie offers denim whose price varies between 109 € and 300 €depending on the model, the fabric (selvage, selvage) or the degree of washing. The brand offers several cuts ranging from simple skinny to a loose fit. Men Jeans are a nice alternative to what can be found in competitors such as Edwin or Levi's. Besides, the brand conveys a certain philosophy. It is one of the first eco-responsible brands on the market, favoring organic cotton for its products and trying to make its entire manufacturing and marketing process transparent. It also encourages consumers to recycle. A brand to follow closely!
Norse projects
This is not new, the danish brand already offered denim before, especially in collaboration with cone mills (pieces with an excellent quality/price ratio). With the closure of the American manufacture in 2017, the brand turned to a European production, Italy. I have two regular fit Italian denim from Norse projects, a washed and a bleached. Even if this is not a selvage canvas, we have beautiful pieces in our hands. The washing is uniform and particularly successful. The canvas is thick and the seams are solid. Initially offered at, you will now have to pay the sum of if you want to acquire one of the denim of the danish label.
Apc
Apc is a french brand that we almost always cite when we talk about Men Jeans! Overall, we could cite the small standard, the standard or the new standard. Even if the cuts are worked and will go to most body shapes (especially fine silhouettes), it will still be necessary to pay attention to the quality of the denim. Indeed, the quality tends to vary according to the models and the seasons. At apc, it takes an average of € 160 to acquire denim.
Norman Venice workshop (avn)
Avn or atelier de la Venise Normande is a french brand that promotes made in France. Among its relatively limited offer, there are jeans made of selvage canvas made in France. For these denim, the brand opted for an Italian Pandiani canvas which it had assembled in France, more specifically in Normandy. The weight of the denim is 13.5 oz and it is available in several cuts: the adjusted, the adjusted straight or the straight. We note a very present quality and above all, beautiful finishes. It will still cost for one of these three cuts and € 184 for their recycled selvage jeans.
Naked & famous
Naked & famous is a Canadian brand that makes Men Jeans from Japanese denim. We mostly find rough jeans made with traditional methods in a modern style. Naked & famous is a brand that offers very good value for money. You can easily find what you are looking for, especially because of the diversity of cut and colors. In addition to this, the brand often offers innovative and original pieces, such as their lord of nep selvage denim or their collaboration with Dragonball z.
Levi's vintage clothing
If you wish to acquire a model from Levi's, we advise you to refer to the two premium brands of the group: vintage clothing and made & crafted. On the other hand, the quality and prices are clearly superior. Regarding Levi's vintage clothing, there are replicas of the famous 501 and big e. The colors and washes are particularly successful. A brand that is aimed at those who wish to move towards vintage pieces without paying astronomical sums to acquire a real 501 from the 50s.
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Japan blue
Japan blue is a Japanese brand launched in 2010 by a denim manufacturer from Okayama (a city very famous in the world of Japanese denim). Within the Japanese blue group, there are two brands. Japan blue for the most affordable and Momotaro for the most upscale. The line chosen for this brand is based on contemporary lines associated with the know-how of traditional jeans making. Note that japan blue is oriented more internationally while Momotaro remains more confidential. In the manufacture of this denim, japan blue essentially uses a mixture of indigo and sulfur. In terms of prices, there are both Men Jeans around.
Onslow
Onslow is a Japanese brand founded in 2005. Created by Ichiro Nakatsu, or slow aims to be a brand of durable and above all comfortable basics. Always in search of the best materials and especially the best know-how, we find a limited production of course, but of quality. Regarding denim, everything is made in Japan, in their workshop in Hyogo, from thread to complete realization of each piece. Onslow has developed a denim line which is now a benchmark in the field, the or slow 105 (straight cut) and the slow 107 (fitted straight). For the little anecdote, the Japanese brand was inspired by the archives of Levi's and the famous big e (Levi's manufactured until 1971) to produce their line. Each weft comes straight from a loom from the 1930s. The result is almost identical to the original models.
Iron heart
Another Japanese brand that offers Men Jeans! The iron heart is recognized as one of the best jeans brands in the world. Jeans are known to be very solid. And for good reason, the brand was originally intended for bikers. The material is therefore twice as thick as classic denim. Their jeans are incredibly durable, woven in the Japanese tradition and skate wonderfully over time.
Momotaro
Momotaro is a Japanese brand that was born in 2005 in Kojima, the city where the first American jeans landed in japan (a kind of mecca for Men Jeans). Denim is made on old looms and with the most prestigious cotton. The canvas is dyed with natural indigo. Between tradition for manufacturing and modernity for cuts, Momotaro jeans are made to perfection with the aim of aging with their wearer. The peculiarity of Momotaro jeans is that they are distinguished by a pink selvage border. If you do not have the opportunity to go to Japan, there remains the possibility of finding a pair in second-hand.
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